That Cup of Coffee!

By Swapan Kumar Das March 31, 2024

Single-estate, pineapple, banana-fermented, and even cold-smoked beans—the coffee scene in India is changing fast.

Many of us remember how the summer visits of cousins who lived abroad were the high points of the season. Out from their bags would emerge the finest of cheeses, chocolates and, of course, coffee. Over the last decade though, things have turned quite on their head. Today, not only are the best global brands serving up, even entrepreneurs in India are curating artisanal products that are competing neck to neck internationally. Take Kerala based chocolatier Paul and Mike which became the first Indian company to win a silver at the International Chocolate Awards in 2020 or Indian coffee estate Jumboor which was voted Best of the Best by Ernesto Illy International Coffee Awards in 2021. Very recently, TasteAtlas ranked our richly-flavoured elixir ‘South Indian Coffee’ as the second-best coffee in the world after Cuban Espresso!


ambrosial experiences

Coffee in India, in fact, has come a long way. Our beans are now exported; and with love for coffee-derived drinks trending high among Millennials and Gen Z, entrepreneurs are now experimenting with global trends and brewing techniques to keep us drinking. 93˚ Coffee Roasters for instance was established with the singular goal “to revolutionise India’s coffee culture and rather than simply looking forward to the next travel itinerary in search of the perfect cup…bring the experience home.” So now, from paying homage to the ancient Indian style of brewing coffee in a brass filter to growing beans in a regenerative forest to packing beans specially for cold brews, like homegrown brands Sleepy Owl, Blue Tokai and others are doing, coffee curators are serving up specialty and artisanal versions, whose exotic names are enough to conjure up images of ambrosial experiences.

So, if you have not savoured coffee the artisanal way, quickly rethink your choices. Most of them blend high-quality fresh and hand-roasted beans of Indian-origin estates and advice a range of brewing styles—from the good old French press to Moka pot, nitro, and more. Innovative blends include notes of caramel, chocolate, vanilla, and even banana, pineapple, and tangerine. But even as the crop-to-cup movement gains momentum and curators jump onto this hit bandwagon every other day, there are some brands that stand out with distinctive USPs.


conscious roasts

Take for instance ARAKU, whose beans are grown in the regenerative forests of Araku highlands of the Eastern Ghats. With flagships in Paris and Bangalore, ARAKU is the world’s first terroir-mapped pure Arabica coffee. Grown by indigenous tribes, the label’s organic beans have a rare aromatic profile—with notes of berry, caramel, and vanilla in their Grand Reserve variety; chocolate and spice in Signature; and fruity in Micro Climate. Or even 93˚ Coffee Roasters which boasts of coffee varieties that range from Pina Colada to Tiramisu, Banoffee, Vietnamese Filter Coffee, and many others.

Another coffee connoisseur’s paradise is Black Baza, which calls itself an “interdisciplinary specialty coffee roastery” and believes in giving back to the community and the environment. Famed for its Whistling Schoolboy blend—perfect for iced and filter coffees—the label’s coffee can be traced back straight to the farms. Known for roasting some of the most diverse and interesting coffees from India, it’s regular and limited-edition brews and flavours are sought for their undertones of dark chocolate, fruity tang, and more.

Yet another distinctive boutique brand is Halli Berri, perhaps the only family-owned, all-women concern in the country which is “conscious and responsible in its produce”. Grown under a canopy of trees that are under rainforest alliance, its single-origin UTZ certified coffees aim to promote “responsible caffeinating”. Halli Berri’s super-specialty coffee varietals achieved through a process of experiment and innovation, are roasted in small batches for greater complexity; so, an elegant cup of Halli Berri coffee has a natural honey-dew flavour that lingers on the palette.


fruity, filter, fermented

Also, if you like your coffee with chocolatey notes, dark caramel undertones, fresh fruit flavours (think ice apple, coconut malai, peach) or even complex-fermented, Tulum, Toffee Coffee Roasters and Karma Kaapi will seize your attention—with much of the oohs and aahs coming from their banana, pineapple, papaya, and Tangerine fermented coffee variants. And no wonder since fermenting beans with fruits to give them a unique tone is a raging global trend today and fermented or cultured coffees, as they are known, notch up several points with their refined sweetness, body, and acidity. A couple of other must-try fermented coffee variants are Maverick and Farmer’s orange juice-fermented Orange You Curious and lactic acid bacteria fermented Milk & Honey.

Then there is Bhava, with a plethora of artisanal blends to satiate the tastes of coffee drinkers. Curating its coffee exclusively from Indian beans, it encourages the modern coffee drinker to experiment with South Indian style filter coffee. SLAY’s Madras Mud Blend does that too—its temperature-resistant packaging making the product last longer. As for Bhava, its many blends—a rich repertoire of aromas that range from roasted nut to cocoa roast, milk chocolate, cardamom, and more—are making enough waves for the brand to now plan experience centres.


the niche ones

Talking about aromas is also incomplete without the mention of Ainmane’s Civet Coffee. One of the most expensive coffee varietals in the world, civet coffee or kopi luwak is created from partially-digested coffee cherries that have been consumed and defecated by wild civet cats. It is no wonder then that although Ainmané sells several speciality coffees including the bittersweet, spicy, and smokey Monsooned Malabar or even the Green Coffee Powder, it is this ‘wildly’ interesting Civet Coffee that has enthusiasts in raptures.

Another such unconventional coffee is Ol’ Smoky, the first cold-smoked coffee ever produced in the world. Curated by niche brand Maverick and Farmer, it is for those who love a mellow, sweet-smoky lining to their favourite drink that is best enjoyed black or slow cold-brewed with a touch of milk.